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Mountainnering in Nepal with trekadviser | Highest mountains in the world

MOUNTAINEERING IN NEPAL

With 8 highest peaks and many 8000 m and 7000 m peaks Nepal is considered the best destination for mountaineering in the world.

Mountaineering in Nepal is not only challenging but also very rewarding. Part of the Himalayas, the highest mountain range in the world lies in Nepal. Eight of the fourteen eight-thousander are located in the country, either in whole or shared across a border with China or India. Nepal has the highest mountain in the world, Mount Everest. The ultimate glory of mountaineering is reaching the summit of Mt. Everest, but there are other technical challenges like Lhose beside it or you can take on any of the other 326 climbing peaks that are waiting for you.

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Mountaineering in Nepal

The most formidable mountain range in the world with nearly a third of the country lying above the elevation of 3,500 m. Eight of the world’s highest peaks lie within Nepal’s territory:

  • Everest 8848 m
  • Kanchenjunga 8586 m
  • Lhotse 8516 m
  • Makalu 8463 m
  • Cho Oyu 8201 m
  • Dhaulagiri 8167 m
  • Manaslu 8156 m
  • Annapurna I 8091 m

which are all over 8,000 m above sea level. Everest was first sumitted by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 with a Bristish Expedition led by John Hunt. While the first mountain to be climbed among them was Annapurna in 1950 by a French Expedition with Maurice Herzog as leader.

Besides these eight giant peaks, there are 326 other mountains within Nepal which are open for mountaineering expeditions and out of them, 103 have never been climbed before. Nepal offers mountaineers more opportunities than any other country in the world, and throws endless challenges at them including the less glorified trekking peaks which still require climbing gear and climbing skills if you want to climb them.

Mountain
/Peak
MetresFeetSectionNotes
Mount Everest8,84829,029Khumbu  Earth’s highest from sea level
Kanchenjunga8,58628,169Northern Kanchenjunga  3rd highest on Earth
Lhotse8,51627,940Everest Group  4th highest
Makalu8,46327,766Makalu Mahalangur  5th highest
Cho Oyu8,20126,906Khumbu Mahalangur  6th highest
Dhaulagiri I8,16726,795Dhaulagiri  7th highest
Manaslu8,15626,759Mansiri  8th highest
Annapurna I8,09126,545Annapurna  10th highest
Gyachung Kang7,95226,089Khumbu Mahalangur  between Everest and Cho Oyu
Annapurna II7,93726,040Annapurna  
Himalchuli7,89325,896Mansiri  18th highest
Ngadi Chuli7,87125,823Mansiri  First ascent 1970
Nuptse7,86125,791Everest Group  319 metres prominence from Lhotse
Dhaulagiri II7,75125,430Dhaulagiri   
Jannu7,71125,299Kumbhakarna Kangchenjunga  
Dhaulagiri IV7,66125,135Dhaulagiri   
Dhaulagiri V7,61824,993Dhaulagiri   
Annapurna III7,55524,787Annapurna  
Jongsong Peak7,46224,482Janak  #57 in the world
Gangapurna7,45524,459Annapurna  
Yangra7,42224,350Ganesh  
Kabru7,41224,318Singalila Kangchenjunga  
Churen Himal7,38524,229Dhaulagiri   
Kirat Chuli7,36524,163Kangchenjunga  
Nangpai Gosum7,35024,114Khumbu Mahalangur  First ascent October 12, 1986
Gimmigela Chuli7,35024,114   First ascent 1995
Chamlang7,32124,019Barun Mahalangur  #79 in the world
Dhaulagiri VI7,26823,845Dhaulagiri   
Putha Hiunchuli7,24623,773Dhaulagiri   
Langtang Lirung7,22723,711Langtang  #99 in the world
Annapurna Dakshin7,21923,684Annapurna  
Langtang Ri7,20523,638Langtang  #106 in the world
Chamar7,18723,579Sringi  First ascent 1953
Melungtse7,18123,560Rolwaling  First ascent 1988
Pumori7,16123,494Khumbu Mahalangur  First ascent 1962
Nemjung Manang7,14023,425   First ascent 1983
Gaurishankar7,13423,406Rolwaling  First ascent 1979
Tilicho Peak7,13423,406Annapurna  First ascent 1979
Api7,13223,399Yoka Pahar Gurans  First ascent 1960
Baruntse7,12923,389Barun Mahalangur  First ascent 1954
Nilgiri7,06123,166Nilgiri Annapurna  First ascent 1962
Saipal7,03123,068Saipal Gurans  
Machapuchare6,99322,943Annapurna  Sacred mountain, unclimbed
Kang Guru6,98122,904Larkya or Peri  2005 avalanche kills 18
Dorje Lakpa6,96622,854Langtang  
Kanjiroba6,88322,582Kanjiroba Himal  
Kubi Gangri6,85922,503Himalayas  
Jethi Bahurani6,85022,474Himalayas  
Ama Dablam6,81222,349Barun Mahalangur  “Mother and her necklace”
Kangtega6,78222,251Barun Mahalangur  First ascent 1963
Cho Polu6,73522,096Barun Mahalangur  First ascent 1999
Changla6,72122,051Himalayas  
Lingtren6,71422,028Khumbu Mahalangur  First ascent 1935
Num Ri6,67721,906Barun Mahalangur  First ascent 2002
Khumbutse6,64021,785Khumbu Mahalangur  First mountain west of Everest
Thamserku6,62321,729Barun Mahalangur  First ascent 1964
Pangboche6,62021,719Kutang Himal  
Dragmarpo Ri6,57821,581Langtang  Unclimbed
Taboche6,54221,463Khumbu Mahalangur  First ascent 1974
Singu Chuli6,50121,329Annapurna  Trekking peak
Mera Peak6,47621,247Himalayas  Trekking peak
Hiunchuli6,44121,132Annapurna  Trekking peak (difficult)
Cholatse6,44021,129Khumbu Mahalangur  Connected to Taboche
Kusum Kangguru6,36720,889Barun Mahalangur  Trekking peak (difficult)
Ombigaichan6,34020,801Barun Mahalangur  
Om Parvat6,19120,312Himalayas  Sacred summit
Kongde Ri6,18720,299Barun Mahalangur  Trekking peak (difficult)
Imja Tse6,16020,210Khumbu Mahalangur  Also known as Island Peak. Popular trekking peak.
Lobuche6,14520,161Khumbu Mahalangur  Trekking peak
Pisang Peak6,09119,984Annapurna  Trekking peak
Nirekha6,06919,911Khumbu Mahalangur  Trekking peak (difficult)
Baden-Powell Peak5,82519,111Jugal  Formerly known as Urkema Peak
Pokalde5,80619,049Khumbu Mahalangur  Trekking peak (moderate)
Mount Khumbila5,76118,901Mahalangur  Unclimbed
Tharpu Chuli5,66318,579Annapurna  Trekking peak
Kala Patthar5,54518,192Khumbu Mah  Popular hiking peak below Pumori
Yala Peak5,52018,110Langtang  
Gokyo Ri5,35717,575Khumbu  Popular hiking peak
Mountains of Nepal
 

Nepal’s climbing history goes back a long way starting with the early explorers from British India who were lured by lofty peaks and the challenges of climbing virgin peaks where no human had set foot before. By the 1960s Nepal’s trekking and mountaineering industry was well establishhed with private companies providing all logistics including porters and guides for a full expedition that would spend months in the mountains.

Since ancient times, people have viewed mountain peaks as towering objects of myth, spiritual inspiration, and romantic beauty. Early people made ascents only to hunt game, to rescue lost or strayed animals, or to gain a military advantage over an enemy. Eventually, the unknown and inaccessible ceased to be something to be feared and avoided, and the conquest of the major mountain peaks and ranges of the world began. Mountaineering as a sport was born on 8th Aug 1786, with the first ascent of Mont Du Blanc (4807 m / 15,771 ft), one of Europe ‘s tallest peaks. Since that ascent, mountain climbing has evolved into three related sports: alpine climbing, ice climbing, and rock climbing. These sports require the same fundamental techniques.

Today there are many companies that will take care of every aspect of mountain climbing and all the mountaineer has to do is arrive in good shape physically and mentally, prepared to take on the challenge and not worry about equipment and supplies. Most of the Everest expeditions are handled by well-known and trusted private companies.

The reputation of the Sherpas is built on mountaineering with many of these mountain people achieving glorified status with their multiplt climbs of Everest and other 8000 m peaks. Most expeditions wouldn’t go up without the loyal, hardy and extremely reliable sherpas. They risk theiir lives for their clients and are often called upon to rescue a climber in trouble. Although today there are many other ethnic groups involved in the service, they are generally referred to as Sherpas.

Despite all the attention being grabbed by mountains like Everest and Annapurna, the latter more for trekking than climbing, there are other peaks being climbed on a regular basis but don’t make headline news. Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Manaslu are also climbed often besides trekking peaks like Mera, Island and Yala peaks which are quite popular. Ther are also climbers looking to climb virgin peaks as Nepal from time to time, opens up new, unheard of peaks for climbing and who wouldn’t want to be the first to climb!

Nepal has designated the Annapurna, Manaslu and Kanchenjunga regions as Conservation Areas while Sagarmatha (Everest), Langtang and Shey-Phoksundo (Dolpo) are national parks while other mountain areas might not fall into these categories but are designated as ‘Restricted Areas’ as they are close to Nepal’s northern border. While the infrastructure of, and accessibility to Sagarmatha, Annapurna, Manaslu and Langtang are well developed and easily accessible enabling mountaineers and expeditions to make quick progress to their base camps the remaining areas, including the restricted areas are still very remote, where rescue or help from external sources will be difficult or unlikely and access to these areas is complex and at times difficult. Expeditions into those areas require a completely different approach, level of commitment and organizational ability to succeed on their chosen summit.

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